Professional Diving Watches

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Submariner
In 1953 Rolex introduced the Submariner, the first watch capable of remaining waterproof up to 100 meters (330 feet) underwater. This may be the most iconic of all watches, in blue, as shown to the right in the two-tone configuration. Interesting, as it so popular and it was often ordered in the past now there are many on the market so it not among the most expensive watches available.

Rolex starting using the 904L stainless steel (SS) in the late 1970s in their Sea-Dweller and then in the Submariner models. This alloy was typically used in aviation and underwater applications as it is highly resistant to oxidation or rusting. By 2003 they had shifted all their SS watches to 904L.

Sea-Dweller
The Rolex Sea-Dweller was added as a professional diver’s watch to the Submariner family, but is unique enough to warrant its own name. Current models are rated to depths of 4000 feet (four times the newest Submariner’s rating of 1000 feet).

The older (vintage) models had no inserted cyclops window in the crystal to maintain water integrity at crushing depths, thus the date appears tiny. The Sea-Dweller Ref. 1665 made between 1967 and 1977 is instantly recognizable by its distinctive red lettering. This model (re. 1665) is know as the
Double Red because it had two lines of red lettering; it was produced from 1967 to 1977 and replaced by the Great White. Some had open 6 digits while others had closed 6’s by which the correct dial for year can be identified by experts.

After 1997 the red lettering was removed and the term “SUBMARINER 2000” disappeared from the dial face. The Ref. Number remained the same, but the watch now became known as
The Great White and was produced in this basic
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style for another five years. On older versions the lume eventually can take on a gold-orange patina which is known as “pumpkin” and is highly desirable. The level of detail among Rolex afficianados never fails to amaze. Pictures: BobsWatches.com

In the photos below, check out the SeaDweller on the left vs.
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the ubiquitous Submariner on the right. The Sea-Dweller’s case is a couple mm bigger, but they look nearly identical in the most recent models, but the original Sea-Dweller had no “cyclops” date window
as it was rated watertight at depths four times greater than the Submariner. The difference between the two is most evident in the thickness of the case, as shown below, with the Sea-Dweller
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being far heftier than the Submariner. As noted by the watchexchange.sg the three most popular models of the Sea-Dweller are:
1. Sea-Dweller 4000 (ref. 126600) – This captivates watch enthusiasts with its striking red text on the dial, paying homage to the original 1967 model. This robust timepiece features a 43mm case and the signature Cerachrom bezel, making it a perfect blend of Rolex’s rich heritage and modern innovation.
2. Sea-Dweller Deepsea (ref. 116660) – The Deepsea stands out as a marvel of engineering, offering extreme water resistance up to 12,800 feet, making it ideal for professional deep-sea divers. Its innovative Ringlock System ensures exceptional strength and durability, while the striking 
3. Sea-Dweller Deepsea D-Blue (ref. 126660) – The D-Blue captivates with its striking blue-to-black gradient dial, an homage to James Cameron’s historic deep-sea exploration. This exceptional timepiece combines Rolex’s advanced technology with a bold, unforgettable design, making it the ultimate choice for ocean adventurers and watch enthusiasts alike.

Also described by the watchexchange.sg the three most popular models of the Submariner are:
1. Submariner Date (ref. 126610LN) – This model captivates with its classic design, boasting a striking black dial and matching Cerachrom bezel. Its date display, enhanced by a Cyclops lens, adds a touch of practicality to this iconic timepiece, making it an ideal choice for both adventure and sophistication.
2. Submariner No Date (ref. 124060) – No Date is the epitome of minimalist elegance in a dive watch. This timeless model showcases a clean, uncluttered dial without a date display, highlighting Rolex’s dedication to refined design and exceptional functionality for those who appreciate simplicity.
Submariner “Hulk” (ref. 116610LV)The Hulk stands out with its striking green dial and matching bezel, creating an unforgettable and bold statement. This unique color scheme, combined with Rolex’s exceptional craftsmanship, has turned the “Hulk” into a highly sought-after and cherished timepiece among collectors and enthusiasts alike.

Green Rolexes
This particular Submariner (Ref. 116610LV) warrants special attention. In 2003, to eommeorate the 50th anniversary of its diving watch, Rolex introduced a new version of the Submariner (Ref. 16610LV) with a green bezel. This became known as the
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Kermit because bezel’s color reminded people of the muppet. The “LV” indicates a green bezel. Previously, all Submariners had been made with black or blue dials, but this was the first Rolex ever made with a green bezel. Even so, it was not received with enthusiasm by everyone, some collectors called it the “Vomit Sub.” In 2003 Rolex also modified the Submariner’s dial with larger hands and indices similar to what they had used on the Yacht-Master since 1991.

The case was the standard 13mm thick Submariner and they retained the Mercedes hands. It was produced for seven years, with an important revision around 2008 with the engraved reheat ring. Tiny changes like the pointy top of the “4” on the bezel was altered to a flat top, which became known as the “Flat 4” or “FAT 4.”

The Hulk
In 2010 Rolex changed the Kermit by introducing a new variation (Ref. 116610LV) which became known as the Hulk.
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The Hulk was distinguished by the “Maxi” case. While keeping the same 40mm size, its crown guards were more pronounced with thicker lugs. It introduced the “Cerachrom” bezel insert which is a more brittle ceramic material as compared to the long-used aluminum. The aluminum bezels were easy to scratch and faded, sometimes causing a desired antiquing like on the Pepsi bezel of the GMT-II which dramatically increased the value in some vintage watches.

Overall, the Cerochrom bezel is appreciated for its resistance to scratching and fade resistance and is now used on all Rolex bezel watches. The Hulk also introduced the “Glidelock” extension allowing small increments of size increase for a better fit on the wrist as its size changed due to water retention or whatever. Most important was the addition of a green sunburst dial, which varies as the sun hits it. This watch has become one of the most desired and collectable of all watches.

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The Starbucks
Unfortunately, in 2020 Rolex ended the Hulk and replaced it with the Ref. 126610LV, known as the
Starbucks model. It is larger than the Hulk at 41 mm, with thinner lugs. The loss of the green dial and return to a black dial caused the value of used Hulks to sky rocket, to typically double the price of a new Starbucks.

Still, the Starbucks (called that because the colors match the Starbucks logo) has upgrades worth noting. It uses the newer calibre 3235 movement allowing a power reserve of 70 hours, as compared to the Hulk’s cal 3135 48-hour reserve. It has better anti-magnetic ratings and shock proof technology. The second hand can be hacked, or stopped, to allow precise synchronizaton with other time sources. The case is till hulky as the 1mm increase allowed the for slimming down the lugs for “better” aesthetics for some, and a better wrist fit.
Photo above from The Watch Observer.

Even with all the improvements, this writer greatly prefers the Hulk’s sunburst green dial as compared to the Kermit or Starbucks black one. This is the one non two-tone watch he would add to his collection in a heart beat, and would probably wear on a daily basis. Guess that means it’s a favorite…

Screen Shot 2023-09-02 at 11.26.33 AM Photo:TheWristAdvisor.com

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