Rolex Terminology
Like any hobby, the more you delve into it, the more lingo you learn specific to the details of the hobby.
Calibre
Watch movements are referred to as a “caliber” and expressed as a number. Often models (Ref. Number) may change but the calibre used remains the same, but introducing a new calibre will induce a new reference. One of the biggest changes in general was going from a 48-hour power reserve to a 70-hour reserve in the newest movements. Here’s a brief history of Rolex movements by Mark Sirianni (the watch doctor) who is my “repair guy.”
Rolesore & Rolesium
They also have “Rolesium” or a combination of SS and platinum, which does not offer much contrast in color, but the texture is different allowing a subtle effect more like appreciated by the owner, than the casual observer. Rolesium is used in Yacht-Master series when gold is not, as shown below. Photos:SwissWatchExpo.com.
The Rehaut
The metal ring, between the dial.bezel and the crystal is called the “rehaut” which comes from the French word for flange. It gives depth to the watch, framing the dial.
Oysterquartz
Rolex helped develope the highly accurate quartz movement in the 1960s, again introduced in the Day-Date Oysterquartz model which is identifiable as it has a unique bracelet which is integrated into the 36mm case. This watch is not typically sought out by mechanical collectors focused only on “Perpetual” movements. Also, called by others automatic watches, you will never find Rolex using this term. Rolex invested quite an effort in quartz watches, and while they sell for less than similar mechanical watches, they are elegant and substantial, but no tool watches have quartz movements so they are not discussed on this website. However, there are 12 references for this interesting model using the 5035 caliber, and more can be learned from Robert-Jan Broker at FralloWatches.com.
Shown are the Ref. 19018 (yellow gold) and Ref. 19019 (white gold). In 01/22 these all gold models listed for €14,630 and €16,306, respectively.
Photos:Zeituktion / FratelloWatches..com.
Photos:Zeituktion / FratelloWatches..com.
Tritium, LuminNova & Chromolight
Originally, Rolex used radium which luminesces as it decays over many years. Being radioactive it was dangerous, and watchmakers’ helpers who painted the hands and hour indictors were getting sick. It was discovered that they were licked the end of their brushes to sharpen the tip repeatedly, causing ingestion of radioactive material. People in the factories were developing cancer and in 1963 Rolex shifted to tritium. Tritium is also radioactive, but much less so than radium. The problem was it Tritium has a 12-year half-life meaning it loses half of its energy (and ability to glow) progressively after each 12 year span. Additionally, Tritium was banned in 1998 for consumer products.
In Japan, Mr. Kenzo Nemoto, had started a luminous paint business in 1941 which contracted with the Japanese military to apply luminescing radioactive substances to the hands and indictors of gauges and meters in their submarines and aircraft. After the war he created Nemota & Co. which patented a nonradioactive pigment called LumiNova made of strontium aluminate crystals – the Japanese were especially to the effects of radiation. It was “charged” when exposed to sunlight, and produced a soft green for hours.
In 1998 Rolex starting using LumiNova on its hands and indicators.
Mercedes hands
Rolex has long used “Mercedes” hands on certain models, as shown on the Explorer to the right. This has nothing to do with the luxury car maker, and instead was named after Mercedes Gleitz, who wore a Rolex around her neck as she became the first woman to swim the English Channel. As mentioned before, she wore a Rolex around her neck and the fact that it kept running was considered remarkable in the 1920s. Used in Rolex’ advertising campaigns, this “made” the Oyster case famous. No one knows when the Mercedes style hand evolved, but there are theories I will leave you to discover on your own.
Photos from 12and60.com.
The Hack
Rolex introduced a method in the Day-Date models, called hacking, to stop the watch from running while setting the second hand, which allowed accurate synchronization of the watch agains another time source, like an atomic clock or a among a group of scientists.
Quick-Set
This clever adaptation removes the need to swing the time through 24 hours (turning the crown to move the hour hand 24 times around the watch face) set the date forward by a day. In the 1990s this was further improved to the double quick-set to just click through the dates. This is done through an extra stop when pulling the crown out, except for the Sky-Dweller which is unique in using its crystal’s bezel as a stop.
Oyster Bracelet
The bracelets for Rolexes were made by Gay Fréres in the 1930–40s and other makers, until Rolex bought Gay Fréres in 1998. Hodinkee.com has a nice history of the Oyster bracelet which as patented and produced in 1948, it was preceded by the Jubilee on the Datejust in 1945. It is important to know that an original Oyster bracelet has 12 links, as often links are missing having been removed to size a watch. Many advertisements will note up to what size (in inches or cm) a watch+bracelt will fit, and whether extra links are included in the sale.
Reference Number
All watch models are referred to as a reference number. That’s just the way it is. See more about ref. and serial numbers in the next section.
